HIT: Dries Van Noten
"This is it! The build-up, the colors! The vividness! I’m super wild for this collection! I love Dries for such a controlled build-up, which he does often. But here it shines, the pale lilacs and greens make way for super flour and vivid prints. Absolutely poetic! The shapes are wearable and accessible. To me this is fashion, and it’s so unique to Dries. I’m in love." [Norden]
"A master of print and color. I thought Dries fell off the wagon for a while, but he redeems himself beautifully here. I love that a lot of the clothes are more elegant than usual, and there is a great evening wear section for those unafraid of a little sparkle. I am absolutely in love with the furs, it literally looks like the models are wearing something that is on fire." [dodencebt]
"ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS. The prints, the color palette, the silhouettes, the sheer elegance of every single piece. I love when Dries goes darker, this is truly fantastic!" [mistress_f]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten collection.
HIT: Saint Laurent
"This was a pleasure to watch. Hate him all you want but he brings fashion EVERY SINGLE TIME. After two weeks of the most boring fashion shows in New York, London and Milan, THIS SHOW felt like a breath of fresh air. Love love love Vaccarello!" [Atelier17]
"Some of his best tailoring yet. Those opening coats with the exaggerated shoulder are quite strong and he's finally improving at the tailoring of his pieces. His strongest collections have been those that also reference Tom Ford's helm at YSL and this is no exception. He's doing the codes that Hedi established at the house better than Hedi is doing at Celine and previously did at YSL!" [reese06]
"I do enjoy Vaccarello at SLP, collection after collection! I always find very beautiful looks or pieces here or there; the show setting is always impeccable." [GivenchyAddict]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent collection.
MISS: Christian Dior
"Every season there's a new low for her to achieve and she always succeeds in doing that. This time it's just an essence of Zara with the Dior tags, nothing more. And the whole idea of SISTERHOOD coming from an expensive brand is just too ridiculous to write about that, leave alone Dior's fake feminism that somehow got lost in the last few season, and, unfortunately, now it's back." [perhydrol]
"Can’t believe she thought it was a good idea to let every single model wear that stupid hat." [mikel]
"They should fire her and just get Marc Jacobs or Alber Albaz. She is milking the whole Identity politics and gender equality thing down to its last drop, because there is no substance or beauty in her clothes." [disco54]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior collection.
HIT: Lanvin
"That coat on Kaia [Gerber] left me speechless; I would kill to own a piece like that in my wardrobe! Great transformation for Lanvin, bravo!" [GERGIN]
"It’s a beautiful collection with a lot of beautiful pieces. I love noisy garments and the dress with the hard fringes at the bottom was perfect. Lanvin right now is selling the kind of clothes they were selling under Alber. But this collection shows a desire to move on but also to give a new energy to the house." [Lola701]
"I love it so much, even though it is obviously an extension of Loewe. But that aesthetic is so up my alley that when done this beautifully, I can't be mad. The pieces are very well made, luxurious but still super casual [so] that they can be worn anywhere and perfectly withstand a day-to-night transition." [dodencebt]
See all the looks from the Lanvin collection.
MISS: Mugler
"The last look is the worst I've seen this season so far. And actually it shows that Mugler should be closed after the departure of David Koma. They've been making the same looks because the creative director still hasn't found out what his Mugler should be about. It's just sad to watch because even that show screams BUDGET." [perhydrol]
"Abysmal. With all these celebs dragging out old Mugler and with an exhibit coming up ... it really makes this Casey dude’s work look so mediocre and uninspiring. Absolutely zero personality. No voice, no perspective, and certainly no understanding of Mugler." [dior_couture1245]
"What’s with the vomit print? Looks vile. And yeah, he has like zero inspiration and just throws random things together. " [Mrs.T]
See all the looks from the Mugler collection.
HIT: Jacquemus
"Gorgeous! Really love the colors. I think it's cool that he's moving away a bit from the flirty beach babe vibe from the last few collections and stepping into something a bit more elegant and layered. But it's still very him: womanly, confident, breezy. It's still remarkable how strong his vision is, the casting, the overall aesthetic, it's so crystal clear." [Marc10]
"Chic, solid, desirable, elaborated. Nothing much to complain [about] here. The accessories are better than ever and I L O V E the boots!" [ghostwriter10549]
"I actually love this collection. I’m sure Simon is sometimes looking at theFashionSpot because suddenly, it seems like he has a better pattern maker. In terms of execution, it’s his most achieved yet. Everything looks well made. I think what I love about Simon is how French, and not necessarily Parisian, his aesthetic is. Keep going, Simon!" [Lola701]
See all the looks from the Jacquemus collection.
MISS: Aalto
"This brand is like lukewarm dishwater to me. They throw a lot of gimmicks yet still manage to be very uninteresting. Plus, their fabrics and colors never look luxurious and elegant. It's a shame they took the name of a great architect and attached it to this crap." [rip_ian curtis]
"I hate the prints, they remind me of school office furnishings." [AnaD]
"Unoriginal ... some pieces remind me of early Demna [Gvasalia] at Balenciaga!" [KissMiss]
See all the looks from the Aalto collection.
HIT: Rochas
"I love what Alessandro Dell'Acqua has been doing at Rochas. (And No. 21, for the matter.) It's sophisticated and grown-up." [Yohji]
"So, so great. Beautiful, wearable clothes that make you want to run to the store to try on and buy!" [Sai]
"Elegant and chic ... how great are these hats?!" [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Rochas collection.
MISS: Maison Margiela
"OK, time to end this. Like, now." [TianCouture]
"I wish he could find a more Margiela way to deconstruct. His attempts often end up looking like Comme and Junya, highlighted even more by the shoes and Julien d’Ys hair!" [rip_ian curtis]
"Stripping away the theatrics is a good move, but this show isn't setting me on fire. It's not his best, but it's still good, and at least we can focus squarely on the clothes instead of gimmicks." [AnaD]
See all the looks from the Maison Margiela collection.
HIT: Lemaire
"I don't think I'll ever tire of their aesthetic. And while I will probably never be able to afford any of their clothes, I will continue to buy his Uniqlo stuff instead. *sob*" [Yohji]
"It's beautiful, please make similar knock-offs at Uniqlo!" [disco54]
"It's this paradoxical talent to make utterly covered-up also totally sleek and sexy. I adore it all." [Not Plain Jane]
See all the looks from the Lemaire collection.
MISS: Courrèges
"Who wants to dress like this now?" [tatouejeremie]
"This is a mess. A terrible mess. At this point, close the brand." [Lola701]
"If I were looking for a collection to wear as I jetted off in to space in my Sputnik spaceship then this would be perfectly serviceable. Unfortunately, the world we live in now has moved on and the solutions this collection offers are required by no one. Just close the brand and be done with it." [grimm]
See all the looks from the Courrèges collection.
HIT: Chloe
"I must say I was backstage, seeing the clothing up close and personal, and it looked perfectly cut and of the highest, highest quality. The accessories were on-point like always with Chloé, even the boots looked amazing. For me this is what this brand is ... maybe a touch too plain for someone else's liking ... but I loved it!" [Scouting Snapper]
"The collection is better to see in motion. I love the prints of this season and the soft embroideries at the end. Both 2019's collections of Chloé by Natacha Ramsay-Levi are strong and wearable! In my opinion, she is getting better season after season." [Cecilou]
"I have grown to like Natacha's Chloé. She really gets the brand. There is something very Chloé and the flow that I enjoy in her vision of the Chloé girls." [TaylorBinque]
See all the looks from the Chloe collection.
MISS: Ann Demeulemeester
"This looks so basic, especially for this brand. Also, satin for winter?" [AnaD]
"These big, billowing shapes would be great for a spring/summer collection, but for fall/winter? And, seriously, you can disregard personal safety when exiting Ubers or public trains in these dresses. Ann would never!" [engenius]
"This shows the importance of keeping the founder/designer at the helm!" [Sai]
See all the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester collection.
HIT: Rick Owens
"Rick is very sexual for me, and this collection just confirmed it. I loved it. The last two collections are exactly what I expect from him. PFW delivers again!" [GivenchyAddict]
"Rick should do more sexy collections, this is spectacular!" [GERGIN]
"Ha, I was just saying wow this is probably Rick's sexiest collection, kinda shocking ... then comes the aliens. So good. Really love the simplicity; he always shines when focusing on cut." [Marc10]
See all the looks from the Rick Owens collection.
Images: Imaxtree
The City of Light is currently abuzz with the fashion elite, who are all dashing across the French capital from show to show during Paris Fashion Week. Already, we’ve seen what Jacquemus, Christian Dior, Saint Laurent and Lemaire have in store for us this upcoming Fall 2019 season — and the week is not over yet.
To kick-start the festivities, the fashion crowd looked to Simon Porte Jacquemus, who staged his show around a makeshift small French town, harking back to his childhood in the countryside. Bruno Sialelli officially made his highly-anticipated debut as Lanvin‘s creative director and reinvented the codes of the French fashion house with effortless ease. Anthony Vaccarello gave us his take on Betty Catroux à la 2019 and rounded off the Saint Laurent show by having models parade the finale dresses under UV lighting, transforming everything to shades of neon before the eyes of startled front row attendees.
Did Rick Owens just make aliens … sexy? Is Sébastien Meunier worthy of being at the helm of Ann Demeulemeester? Perhaps it’s now time for someone over at Dior HQ to give Marc Jacobs or Alber Albaz a call and replace Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior? Should the house of Mugler finally call it a day and shut down shop? Leave it to our unfiltered forum members to answer all of these burning questions.
Here are theFashionSpot’s hits and misses of Paris Fashion Week’s Fall 2019 season (so far), and stay tuned — because the best is surely yet to come.
[ Next: All the Best Street Style Looks From Paris Fashion Week ]
The post Hits and Misses: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2019 appeared first on theFashionSpot.
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